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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.